My plans were to visit another coastal town, and my choice fell on Princess town. It is a longish ride from Agona, made more difficult by a stretch of dirt road riddled with potholes. When I finally got to destination, I was taken up to the fort which also works as guesthouse. Being able to stay in a historic building was exciting in itself, but there was also an incredibly beautiful view over the palm-tree lined white beach on one side and Cape Three Points, the southernmost place in Ghana, on the other. The manor house, guarded by ramparts and cannons, smacks of northern European architecture, being in fact built by the Prussians.

I spent the afternoon reading on the terrace in a state of bliss, caressed by the warm ocean breeze, listening to the roar of the breakers on the rocks below, and finally observing the sun go down. The sunlight gradually dimmed to dull tones until it was replaced by a bright moon that showered its light on the sea and the elegant vegetation.

The caretaker cooked some rice for me in the evening. It was accompanied by tomato coulis which was so concentrated that I felt nauseous. I should have stopped eating then, but I continued thinking I needed nourishment. When I was sleepy I retreated to my huge round room with a central double bed. Inside the heat was sweltering and the fan was not working. It wasn’t long before I was forced to take my mattress out on the terrace and sleep under my own mosquito net.

Suddenly, I woke up and was sick. It happened three times more in the matter of a few hours. When I had no more food to expel and still vomited, I thought something funny was happening. Then I had cold sweats. I must see a doctor immediately to rule out malaria. At dawn I lurched down to the bus stop and waited for the trotro to fill up. I was feeling poorly, but had to hold on for the long ride and even endure the breaking-down of the vehicle before I reached the clinic. But I tested negative and it turned out to be only food poisoning.

Although I was not at all in shape, I gathered enough strength to go to Axim as a last stop. An  elegant tourist resort lies on its outskirts, which is why I felt imprisoned in this secluded location with no real town immediately outside. I’m not used to these places, and walked to the centre to visit another interesting fort. The caretaker, as knowledgeable about history and dates as they usually are, explained the work of an Italian scholar who worked on an interesting documentation project.

The next day I spent my last hours on the beach before moving on to Accra. The acrid fumes were a shock after the free winds sweeping the coast I had enjoyed so much, but it was time to say goodbye.

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